There should be a distance of at least 15 centimeters from cracks, edges and holes. The rock must have a compact structure to ensure durability. Pay Attention to the Following when Drilling If you are using mortar glass cartridges, make sure that the cartridge and anchor lengths match.
If it is a soft stone such as sandstone, you have to sink the anchor even deeper into the rock. Note that the composite anchor must be anchored at least 70 millimeters deep in the rock to ensure sufficient grip on both radial and axial lines. If the anchor is too short, you have to expect a much lower strength. If the mortar is too old, it will not be able to harden completely – this also applies if you store it too warm. You should also keep the expiration date in mind. In this respect, pay close attention to the instructions in the mortar’s operating manual. Therefore, you should wear gloves and glasses for this project.Īlso bear in mind that not all bonding mortars are suitable for axial tension. A problem arises with these systems when using the composite mortars used to fix the anchors. This category includes the classic Buhler as well as the composite anchor with the two-component mortar. Expanding dowel systems at least 70 millimetersĪn Overview of the Most Important Facts about the Use of Composite Anchors.mechanical drill anchor systems: the minimum depth is five times the drill hole diameter.Composite anchor: at least 70 millimeters.
The minimum embedment depth for the different types of drill anchors is as follows: It also requires a minimum embedment depth for climbing anchors.
GUIDE INSTALLING THE CLIMB FROM SKIDROW FREE
The positive-locking model, on the other hand, is free of expansion pressure. The latter variant maintains itself in the borehole through the expansion pressure by creating an explosive effect. The latter can also be divided into positive and frictional locking systems. These are composite anchors and mechanical drill anchors.
These Types of Climbing Anchors are AvailableĬlimbing or drilling anchors are generally divided into two categories. They comply with the EN 959 standard and have become reliable fixed anchors in sport climbing. In spite of this deficiency, this climbing anchor is still in use today.Īfter that, standard-compliant systems became generally accepted for climbing. If there is then a pull to the outside, maximum strength is no longer given. However, the drill hole must not be too deep, otherwise the cone will not expand the dowel crown. This is an anchor system made of robust, hardened material.
Today they are no longer used.įinally, in the 1970s, the crown drill anchor was introduced. However, in terms of safety, they still had serious defects. They consisted of a square, which was driven into the round drill hole. At that time they were the so-called pin drill anchors. The climbing anchors were first used in 1944 at the Wilder Kaiser. (source: outdoor- magazin) The History of Climbing Anchors